wave calculator

Domain unit
Depth   (m)
Height (m)
Period (s)
Wavelenght (m)
Celerity (m/s)
n (m/s)
K shoaling -
K Refraction  


The nazaré wave is a linear wave calculator that accounts for wave shoaling and refraction over straight and parallel bottom contours.


For further details on the computations see for example Masselink G. (2005) Wave Refraction Diagrams. In: Schwartz M.L. (eds) Encyclopedia of Coastal Science. Encyclopedia of Earth Science Series. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3880-1_349